Vitamin C is an incredibly popular skincare ingredient that seems to always be “trending” in viral skincare videos across social media. As more people look to incorporate vitamin C in their routine, understanding its benefits and variations will be crucial in identifying the best products for your skin.
What Is Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a predominantly water-soluble vitamin found in fruits, berries, vegetables, and dietary supplements that plays a crucial role in blood vessels, cartilage, muscle, and collagen formation.
It’s also considered one of the most effective and safe active ingredients for skincare applications.
Vitamin C is highly regarded in this context for its anti-aging properties, effectively addressing wrinkles, fine lines, and other external stressors.
Why Use Vitamin C
Our bodies do not produce vitamin C; instead, we rely on foods and supplements to get enough doses. Yet, several body functions depend on vitamin C, leaving little to act on the skin. Most dermatologists advise increasing vitamin C supply through topical application, but how does vitamin C benefit the skin?
The first and most important benefit of vitamin C to the skin is its ability to protect skin cells from external factors. Typically, the skin picks up free radicals from different sources that damage the skin and accelerate aging. Vitamin C addresses this issue as an effective antioxidant by reducing the oxidation rate from these free radicals.
Vitamin C also plays a significant role in anti-aging. Our ability to maintain youthful skin depends on how well the skin stimulates collagen, yet studies have shown that our ability to produce collagen reduces by about 1 – 1.5 percent after age 20. Vitamin C helps promote healthier collagen production while also preventing collagen breakdown.
Finally, vitamin C is highly regarded for its role in addressing hyperpigmentation and fostering a bright, even tone. Vitamin C impedes the overproduction of melanin, making it ideal for treating various hyperpigmentation issues.
Types of Vitamin C
Most dermatologists recommend including a vitamin C-rich product in your skin care regimen, yet choosing one can be difficult. Those versed in skincare products must have noticed that the label for vitamin C products never reads “vitamin C” due to its various forms, and whichever form you opt for matters.
Hence, this section provides a guide to the different types of vitamin C and highlights some standard products under each category.
Pure Vitamin C (L–ascorbic Acid)
If you’re in the market for a vitamin C-rich skincare product, you will most likely come across this type. Pure vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid is a potent version, refined to neutralize free radicals and their adverse effects on the skin.
L-ascorbic acid possesses the general benefits of vitamin C, making them prevalent components in skincare products. However, their effectiveness also depends on how they are formulated. Usually, pure vitamin C tends to be more effective in penetrating the skin when formulated with a pretty low pH (less than 3.5) that eliminates any charged molecules.
The concentration also affects its potency, ranging from 5 – 20 percent. A higher concentration will not deliver better results. Furthermore, the low pH formulation can cause irritation when applied topically, making it inadequate for dry and sensitive skin. Some best-formulated ascorbic acid products include CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum, Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster, and COSRX Pure Vitamin C Serum.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is less potent than pure vitamin C; however, it still offers several benefits to the skin. Applying SAP to the skin typically converts to ascorbic acid; however, it does not require a low pH to be efficient. This makes it a less intense and less irritating alternative, particularly for sensitive skin.
Research has shown SAP effectively reduces sebum production, which can be crucial in addressing acne and other similar issues. That said, SAP’s low potency compared to pure vitamin C means it’s often formulated with other antioxidants and ingredients to achieve better results.
The usual concentration of SAP in skincare products ranges from 0.2 – 3 percent, a valuable range to protect the skin from external factors and address aging signs. However, some products that address breakout factors can reach a 5% concentration.
Products like EmerginC Forte C Serum, Derma-E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum, and the Orgaid Vitamin C & Revitalizing Sheet Mask contain healthy concentrations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) works similarly to SAP regarding its pH tolerance and potency in skincare formulations. MAP is a versatile vitamin C form that works in water and oil- based formulations. It’s also a more gentle and stable antioxidant than L-ascorbic acid, making it perfect for sensitive skin.
Most skincare products mix MAP with other ingredients like vitamin E, vitamin B, and hyaluronic acid to boost its potency. These products are particularly helpful in addressing acne. MAP’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties help prevent blackheads and scarring from oxidation.
Studies have shown that skincare products require a MAP concentration of at least 10% to address acne and improve skin tone. Some effective MAP product recommendations include the Skin Actives Collagen Serum and True Botanicals Organic Renew Repair Nightly Treatment Serum.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
While it’s regarded as the inactive form of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD), an oil- soluble ester form of vitamin C, is one of the best variations for skincare products. But, aside from its oil solubility, what makes it different from other forms of vitamin C on this list?
THD is known to remain inactive and not convert into pure vitamin C until it touches the oils in the skin, a characteristic that makes it the most stable type of vitamin C. Its oil solubility also means a slower release time, providing the skin with more extended protection. Furthermore, the slow release and low pH requirement also mitigate the possibility of irritation and reactions.
Like L-ascorbic acid, THD is backed by comprehensive research, with most studies highlighting its effectiveness in addressing skin pigmentation issues. These researches also suggest that THD is a better option for improving collagen synthesis. A concentration of 2% or higher is ideal for achieving the full benefits of THD.
Some THD ascorbate product recommendations include Sunday Riley C.E.O Glow Oil and Holifrog Sunnyside C Glow Serum.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Finally, the ascorbyl palmitate (AP) is another fat-soluble vitamin C capable of penetrating the skin more quickly than other types. AP provides antioxidant protection and can control sebum production, particularly when formulated with sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
That said, AP does not convert well into pure vitamin C when applied; as such, it requires a high concentration to be potent. However, a concentration of about 1-3 percent is ideal when used alongside other ingredients. Furthermore, AP is less stable than other forms of vitamin C except L-ascorbic acid.
It’s low stability and poor conversion rate make AP a less common form of vitamin C in skincare products. Still, a product like the Sonage C Shield Smart Serum offers a usable dose of AP.
Which Vitamin C Is Most Effective?
Identifying the most effective form of vitamin C depends on various considerations. First, the formulation is crucial when choosing any vitamin C product. Pure vitamin C products must have a pH of less than 3.5 to be effective. On the other hand, the pH of other forms is only sometimes relevant, as their effectiveness depends significantly on other antioxidant and active ingredients in the product.
Alongside the pH, you should also consider the percentage concentration. As we’ve seen, a 5- 20 percent concentration is perfect for pure vitamin C, while other vitamin C derivatives vary significantly. Other forms must convert to L-ascorbic first, so a low concentration may be insufficient to get the full benefits.
Needless to say, L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C; however, it’s best to consider its effects on your skin type. If you have sensitive skin, consider other stable forms or a low concentration of L-ascorbic acid.
The ability of SAP and AP to protect the skin and control sebum production makes it ideal for oily skin and those prone to acne. Whichever you choose, always consult with a dermatologist. Vitamin C serums are also photosensitive, so applying sunscreen is wise.
