Skincare Pilling 101: What is it, and How to Prevent it

Skincare Pilling 101: What is it, and How to Prevent it

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When it comes to skincare, there are more troubling issues than skincare pilling – a case where beauty products begin to form little granules that constantly build up until they fall right off your skin. Still, this doesn’t make skincare pilling any less annoying, primarily due to the effort invested in every routine.

According to experts, there are several reasons why your skincare could form small balls, and when this happens, it not only triggers a bit of self-consciousness but also limits the effectiveness of your routine. Luckily, you can address pilling easily. Here’s all you need to know about pilling, what it is, and how to stop it from happening.

What is Skincare Pilling?

The term “pilling” originates from the fashion scene, describing the build-up of small, fuzzy balls on a fabric’s surface due to wear and tear. Likewise, in skincare, pilling happens when skin beauty products clump together, creating an uneven texture. This is often noticeable after applying makeup or skin care products and can even occur a few hours after application.

In contrast to certain viewpoints, pilling does not suggest an issue with your skin, nor does it mean your products are fake or substandard. Instead, it’s a sign that your skin may not fully absorb the products or that some products are incompatible.

Peeling vs Pilling

While there are misconceptions about skincare pilling and peeling, it’s crucial to establish a clear distinction between both terminologies. Typically, peeling occurs when the outer layer of the skin shows visible signs of shedding. This can be a normal reaction when exfoliating or using skin-renewing active ingredients like retinol and AHA. In other instances, peeling can also be a side effect of skin barrier disruption.

In truth, the clumps of pilling skincare can look very similar to skin shedding, adding to the confusion. However, you can quickly determine between skin shedding and skincare clumping. Simply inspect your skin when it’s clean or gently rub it; if you notice visible flakiness, that would imply your skin is peeling. In that case, it’s advisable to reevaluate your skincare routine and investigate potential skin issues.

Why Does My Skincare Pill?

More often than not, skincare pilling occurs when different skincare layers do not blend well due to their various types of emulsion.  Let’s explore this further.

Across various skincare products, there are two main types of emulsion: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based formulations like facial oils, oil cleansers, oil-based serums, and moisturizers predominantly feature oils as their primary ingredients. On the other hand, water-based products exhibit a lighter, more aqueous texture, as seen in serums and lotions.

Because oil and water do not mix well, skincare pilling usually occurs when both formulas are applied in layers. Rather than blending nicely, the oil and water bases tend to react, leading to separation and build-ups.

Another potential cause of skincare pilling could be the presence of a high concentration of silicones. While silicones often receive criticism within the beauty industry, their widespread popularity is not without merit. Despite their apparent side effects, Silicones’ versatility and cost-effectiveness make them a common ingredient in most skincare products.

Typically, silicones create a smooth surface on the skin, so they tend to stay on top of the skin’s surface. However, it’s hard to spread a new product on top of one that hasn’t been fully absorbed. Applying other skincare products on silicone-based formulations would eventually result in clumping.

Aside from emulsion and silicone levels, other factors may contribute to pilling skincare. Sometimes, it could be due to a multi-step skincare routine involving several layers; other times, it may result in applying excessively thick layers of specific products or not allowing sufficient time between skincare steps.

How to Prevent Skincare Pilling

Now you understand the prevalent reasons behind your pilling skincare, here are some steps you can take to prevent it from occurring:

  • Apply Skincare Products in the Right Order

At some point, you may have asked, “Why is my skincare pilling?” Well, chances are you’re applying them in the wrong order. This is why dermatologists and beauty experts suggest using products from lightest to heaviest.

Suppose you’re considering starting a simple daily skincare routine; it’s best to first apply lighter products like serums and eye creams, followed by heavier products like moisturizers and sunscreen. This sequence ensures that products containing the most active ingredients have the closest contact with the skin.

Alternatively, you can stick to products with similar formulation base when layering. This effectively eliminates the issue of incompatibility between different layers. But if you must use products with different bases, always apply oils last, as they can penetrate other products.

  • Take Your Time Applying Products

Some of us are too impatient to get our skincare routine done right, which could also result in pilling. It’s tempting to want to apply all your skincare products in a few minutes and be done with it. The issue with this is that we don’t give products enough time to dry before applying the next, and when both products mix, it could result in build-ups.

The solution is pretty simple: give a bit of time between layers, typically around a minute or slightly more, to ensure each layer fully absorbs before proceeding to the next. This gives ample time to build up an excellent smooth base, which could also facilitate easy makeup application.

  • Use the Right Amount of Skincare Products

After showering following a long day, it might be tempting to liberally apply moisturizers and follow it up with a generous coating of oil serums on your face. However, this practice can often result in frequent occurrences of skincare pilling.

Adhering to the recommended amount of skincare product application is a foolproof method for reducing the chances of products not absorbing into the skin as intended and causing pilling. Sunscreen should be the only exception to this tip; always apply sunscreen generously.

  • Opt for Lightweight, Compatible Products

Choosing lightweight, compatible skincare products can help limit the chances of skincare pilling. Lightweight formulations blend well together and absorb effectively into the skin. They also tend to have a texture that’s easier to layer without causing excessive clumping.

Furthermore, by opting for compatible products, you can be sure they work synergistically rather than against each other. This further reduces the likelihood of pilling by promoting better absorption and blending between different layers applied to the skin.

  • Exfoliate Regularly

Exfoliation plays a significant role in how well skincare products penetrate the skin; it’s no surprise that it can also affect the chances of pilling. For instance, you may need to exfoliate before applying a product that doesn’t absorb easily. Yet, despite the importance of exfoliation, over-exfoliating the skin could also cause issues.

Over-exfoliation can impact how products sit on your skin, thus affecting the likelihood of these products pilling. Applying several products on heavily exfoliated skin can also damage the moisture barrier and induce further pilling. It’s a thin line that you must thread, and mastering your exfoliating routine is key to getting the full benefits of your routine.

Ideally, you should use just the right amount of exfoliation for your skin type, typically once weekly for dry or balanced skin and about three times weekly for those with combination or oily skin. Furthermore, you’ll realize when you over-exfoliate if you experience inflammation or uncomfortable dryness.

Some of the best exfoliants include the Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum for combination skin, Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA for dry skin, and the Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2%, perfect for sensitive skin.

  • Use Gentle Touch When Applying Products

When applying your products, avoid rubbing or tugging at your skin, as these actions can create friction and potentially contribute to pilling. Instead, opt for more gentle patting motions to improve absorption into your skin and ensure a more effective application process.

  • Look out for the Ingredients in Your Products

While it may not be a common cause, skincare piling could also be a result of the presence of certain ingredients. Under such circumstances, you should test each product to see if any of them pill on their own. 

A skincare formulation would typically pill if it’s poorly formulated or neutralized – having too high or too low pH. Increasing your knowledge of skincare ingredients can be a lengthy process; however, it is imperative. For instance, self-pilling is common in carbomer-based products, so you can start testing products formulated with this agent.

Ultimately, if your skincare products clump up, flake off, or pill, it’s likely that some products are not compatible with others. It could also mean some formulations are taking too long to absorb. Hence, you should always try to use compatible ingredients or products with similar bases and allow them ample time to absorb into your skin thoroughly.

Also, remember to exfoliate regularly to improve the skin’s absorption of your skincare products. While these processes may take longer, it’s a small trade-off to avoid dealing with skincare pilling in the future.

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